OregonLive article – http://www.oregonlive.com/happy-valley/index.ssf/2011/03/happy_valley_man_nicholas_butkovich_accused_of_selling_cars_without_a_license.html
KATU News also did two stories on him – http://www.katu.com/news/problemsolver/95882224.html – http://www.katu.com/news/problemsolver/95882224.html?tab=video – http://clackamas.katu.com/content/man-sought-connection-illegal-car-sales
Pay attention out there.
Josh – PDXinspections.com
This has been an interesting week. I’ve been turning away more and more inspections for vehicles located on 82nd Ave in Portland, Oregon as the gap between what will actually pass my inspections and is actually worth pursuing is becoming very slim. This last Sunday a gentleman purchased an 01 Porsche Boxter with 89K miles from an established 82nd dealer with a fancy website. Being Sunday and wanting to get him in the car that had been sitting on their lot for 3 months they told him they’d give him a 36 hour “right of return” stating they would take it back if he had it inspected and the inspection revealed a “Major mechanical failure” He decided to contact me Monday but unfortunately I was booked for the day and wasn’t able to get to him until Tuesday afternoon. Unfortunately that was too late as he only had till 12:00 on Tuesday. Knowing where he purchased the car and the likely fact it was not likely a good car I decided to fit him in Monday afternoon. I’m glad I was able to so, this was one of the worst quality cars I’ve seen in a long time.
Figuring we had more than enough to report we decided to call the inspection short. I didn’t finish or drive the car as he wanted nothing to do with the car and I couldn’t blame him. He immediately called the dealer up and of course they said they wouldn’t take the car back since we didn’t find a “Major Mechanical Failure”. He immediately contacted a lawyer, canceled his check and decided to take the car back the following morning. When he arrived they agreed to take the car back based on my findings. This car is now back on 82nd where someone who won’t think to have it inspected will buy it and it will be back on the road. The
Carfax was clean and AutoCheck showed “Frame Damage”. Further proving what I say about Carfax reports benefitting and being geared towards dealers more so that consumers.
Truthfully, he got lucky. Oregon is an “As Is” state meaning there is no recourse when buying a poor quality vehicle. You should always have the vehicle inspected PRIOR to purchasing.
Please be an educated buyer – Be sure to do your research on the vehicle you’re considering, the company you’re dealing with, and most importantly don’t buy without having your next potential purchase Pre-Purchase Inspected before making an offer.
Josh
http://PDXinspections.com
I get this question a lot and figured it could make a good Blog to help you used car buyers out there.
Question: I am looking to buy a minivan for the family and am thinking of a Toyota Sienna. In particular I am looking at a 2001 XLE with only 20,000 miles (not a misprint) for $11,200. I spoke to the seller and it was his grandparents car, and they hardly drove it. As this mileage is so rare for a car almost 10 years old, my question is whether this is a better way to go in general (I know it depends on each vehicle) or would it be better to get a the $11,000 equivalent in a newer car like a 2005 but with a 100,000 miles. I guess ultimately my question is what role the simple age of a car plays in car performance/reliability if it has been hardly driven.
My Professional Opinion: In my opinion I would pick a 50K mile a year vehicle over a 2K mile a year one assuming it was properly maintained. What people forget is the best kind of driving you can do is highway driving that is because the motor is up to temp longer and in this kind or driving everything is running on oil and believe it or not there is virtually no engine wear. Most of your engine wear comes from cold starts as for those few second there isn’t a thin layer of oil under pressure and coating everything. Also the engine emissions are highest at this point which most people don’t realize the engine oil catches much off these pollutants in combination of with moisture (byproduct of normal combustion) causes an acidic mixture in the crank case which can and will attack everything including bearings. When a vehicle is constantly driven in short trips, the engine oil is never able to get up to temp to actually boil off this moisture. This is why the oil should also be replaced by time and not only mileage. This means this vehicle really should have had the oil changed 20-40 times in the last 10 years, has it? Anything rubber will deteriorate over time and not necessarily mileage. There are a lot of rubber items including engine seals, drivetrain seals and boots, suspension seals, tires and more. Not to mention there is a big difference the quality of vehicles manufactures are producing now from even 2000. Other benefits are newer model, better economy, better technologies, better resale, safer vehicle, etc…
These are things to consider, as I often mention to my clients, there is a reason many manufactures are now stepping up to 100K warranties. The day will soon come where 200K miles is pretty normal mileage for most manufactures. The most important thing you can do is to follow the manufactures maintenance manuals (and not necessarily the dealers if you want to protect your wallet) Change all fluids regularly and you should have trouble free operation for the life of the vehicle.
Josh – Owner
http://PDXinspections.com
A good article from Yahoo - http://finance.yahoo.com/family-home/article/111525/what-car-mechanics-wont-tell-you?mod=family-auto
You don’t need to change your oil every 3,000 miles.
Here’s a secret that mechanics don’t want you to know: You really don’t need to have your oil changed every 3,000 miles.
“The oil change itself is a loss leader,” said Austin Davis, whose family has been in the car-maintenance business in Houston since 1937. He’s the author of “What Your Car Mechanic Doesn’t Want You to Know” and has a website called MyHonestMechanic.com.It’s a waste of a precious resource — not to mention money — to take your car in every 3,000 miles or three months, experts say. On average, most cars don’t need an oil change for 7,500 miles.
“Most repair shops will lose money or at best break even on a $25 to $28 oil change,” he said. “The whole idea is to get you to also buy an air filter, rotate your tires or buy something else while you’re there.”
Complaints about auto repairs consistently rank among the top 10 grievances filed to state attorneys general, according to the National Association of Attorneys General. In 2008, the latest figures available, auto repair complaints ranked No. 6 on the list.
Because car manufacturing has become so sophisticated and less reliant on human intervention — more computers and technology are producing and installing parts, for example — the car-repair business isn’t as robust as it was 10 and even five years ago.
“The easiest way to make up for money that you’re losing or to increase profits is to turn up the up-sell button on all your services,” said Philip Reed, senior consumer-advice editor for Edmunds.com. “Mechanics want you to get brake jobs earlier than you need them or change oil filters more frequently.”
Sometimes, however, we are our worst enemies when it comes to explaining what is wrong with the car and giving away too much information. “Never reveal your budget,” said Mr. Davis. “If there’s steam pouring out of the hood of your Mercedes, don’t tell the guy ‘I hope this isn’t going to cost me $2,000.’
“He’ll be thinking, ‘How about $1,995,’” he said.
There are no hard-and-fast rules about maintaining cars because they’re all different. But experts do agree on this rule of thumb: Use your car manual as your guide. It will tell you at what mileage mark the oil should be changed or the transmission fluids flushed and what intervals that maintenance should follow as well as a host of other upkeep tips.
“If there’s a conflict between what the owner’s manual recommends and what the dealer recommends, follow the owner’s manual,” said Reed. “The manufacturer made the car; they should know what it takes to maintain it and keep it running.”
Pay attention too to the warranty packages. Cars known for dependability will guarantee parts for as many as 70,000 miles. That’s almost the equivalent of driving around the earth three times.
“Cars today are just so well made that the failure rates of parts is close to nil,” Davis said.
But long before it does come time to turn the keys over to a mechanic, find one that is trustworthy enough with which to build a long relationship.
“If you develop a relationship with your mechanic, you’re much less likely to be ripped off,” said Brandy Schaffels, content manager for the TrueCar.com website. “They’ll go out of their way to help you.” She had a mechanic who built an air-conditioner compressor by hand at a substantial savings to buying a new one.
“If your instinct tells you that what they’re telling you doesn’t sound right, double-check it with another mechanic,” she said.
Go in prepared. Edmunds.com has a plethora of educational and how-to categories on its site. Davis compiled a maintenance schedule for a variety of cars. See the list here.
Schaffels also recommended purchasing a device that can plug into the car’s port and diagnose why the check-engine or brake light is on; that part is available at do-it-yourself car-parts stores.
Other sites such as MotorTrend.com, 2carpros.com and 10w40.com can expand a car novice’s vocabulary and know-how as well.
Here’s a primer that will help you from getting scammed by mechanics.
“Be wary of inspections,” Davis said. A 40,000-mile inspection package at $400, for example, will call for a check on everything from the oil and brake pads to the door hinges.
“You pay them $400 to tear your car apart and look for additional repairs to sell you,” Davis said. “That’s a great business model right there.”
You don’t need to replace or flush transmission fluids until 25,000 to 30,000 miles. Some cars won’t need the transmission fluids touched for 50,000 to 60,000 miles and some manufacturers are moving toward using fluid that will never needs to be replaced.
Look at the brake pads yourself before committing to new pads and think about changing them yourself. “It’s a really well-kept secret that changing a brake pad is pretty easy,” Reed said. “People get freaked out with brakes thinking that if they don’t do it correctly, the car won’t stop. If there’s a problem with your brakes, you’ll know right away.”
Don’t fret either if the mechanic says the brakes are about 50% worn down. They don’t need to be replaced until they’re 85% to 90% worn.
Ask for the replaced parts. Some states may require that the old parts are given to car owners with the itemized bill. But know what you’re getting. Davis said he once gave an established customer an old air-conditioning compressor rather than the water pump he replaced to make the point. “We had a nice discussion about what a water pump is, what it does and what it looks like,” he said.
Put chalks marks on car tires before having them rotated. Tire rotation is important because it keeps the wear and tear on the tires even and it extends the life of the tires. With all the turning, stopping and parallel parking, the front tires wear out substantially quicker than the back.
When you have them rotated, you are swapping the front tires for the back, not side-to-side or criss-crossing. But it’s tough to tell if the tires have been actually changed unless you put chalks marks on them — say, FL for front left, RR for rear right, etc.
Tire rotations are directly tied to certain mileage marks. There’s a 5,000-mile minimum by some manufacturers, but 7,500 miles is the average. Some tires don’t have to be rotated for as many as 20,000 miles.
Beware of the check-engine light. It’s another profit center for a lot of dealerships and garages. The check-engine light is a sensor that is telling you that something is amiss in the car. It doesn’t mean the car will self-destruct or die suddenly on a highway.
“Probably the most common cause of the check-engine light is that the gas cap is not on tight enough,” Reed said. The sensor has responded to the extra oxygen going through the gas line and it will go off once the cap has been tightened or the entire tank has been used.
Many mechanics will offer free diagnostic tests to tell you why the check-engine light is on. Consider that another red flag.
“Mechanics can tell you anything once the check-engine light comes on,” Reed said.
Ask the mechanic to show you the problems. If the transmission fluid is not pink, but a dark brown, it’s time to change it. If it’s gritty because of accumulated pieces of metal and plastic, changing it could cause the transmission to slip further. If the dip stick for the transmission smells like barbeque sauce, then there are problems.
“Don’t be afraid to ask them to explain these things to you,” Davis said.
Keep a precise record of repairs and check them before you bring the car in. Schaffels said she used to keep a log of every tank of gas she purchased, where the mileage stood, what she paid for the gas and how the fuel economy tracked.
“If your vehicle’s fuel economy has changed, it tells you that something needs to be adjusted,” she said. It could be as simple as putting air in the tires to replacing rotors or plugs.
Know your car. Listen to how it starts and stops, how the wheels and brakes sound when you turn corners or come to quick stops. How does the motor hum? Does it rattle anywhere? Know how your car sounds when it’s running well so that you know what sounds bad when it’s not
“If you know what it sounds like when it’s not running well, that makes it easier for the mechanic to fix the problem,” Schaffels said.
Communicate well. The worst thing you could do is throw the keys on the counter and tell the mechanic to figure out what is wrong with the car. Let him know what your problem was, what the sound was you were hearing and from where.
“Give the mechanic enough information about the problem so that he’s not spending hours and your money to figure the thing out,” Davis said. “You don’t walk into your dentist and say, ‘I’m pretty sure it’s that tooth. Just go ahead and pull it.’”
Be nice. Your car breaks down on your way to work the day of the huge presentation. You’re angry and desperate. It’s not the mechanic’s fault, so don’t direct your frustration at him. It could end up costing you. Davis’s father charged a 10% penalty premium for customers who were rude to him or his employees because of car breakdowns.
I performed two separate inspections on two 2000 Honda Accords yesterday and the SRS lights were illuminated on my arrival for both. Neither customer notified me of this condition prior to my arrival and were unaware of what the lights being on meant. Generally speaking ANY light in the dash that is orange or red while the engine is running is bad. The best place to have an airbag system diagnosed would be a reputable dealer and the labor involved and parts if necessary can skyrocket in a hurry… (this can be a huge hidden cost when used car shopping)
The SRS or Airbag light fuction similarly no matter what type of vehicle. When looking at a vehicle that has SRS or Airbag light is lit solid or repeatedly flashing while running, it should be assumed the Airbags are disabled/non functional and there is a problem in the airbag or supplemental restraint system (SRS).
What you can do: When you get in the vehicle, key it on and watch for the light. Depending on the vehicle the light MUST come on for 5-7 seconds or flash 5-7 times and then go out. This is a self check and the light will only go out if there are no problems found. (90% of passenger vehicles on the road function this way) This doesn’t mean there are no problems however, some unscrupulous sellers or shady rebuilders will try to fool the system. Read below…
If you key it on and you do not see this light the car is either too old and doesn’t have airbags (look at the steering wheel and see if it says airbag) or on a new vehicle that does have airbags but there is something very wrong going on! I have seen shady rebuilders install electrical tape over this light or dissemble the cluster to remove or damage the bulb/LED to prevent it from illuminating. There is about a .015% chance the light has burned out if they try to tell you that…
Long story short, because of the expense involved with airbags you should have the seller fix this prior to negotiating or having a professional evaluate the vehicle. Once fixed have a independent professional go over your potential used vehicle purchase, someone with the capabilities to deep scan the vehicles airbag computer (SDM) for problems or codes and to visually inspect to see if airbags are intact and untouched.
Be careful out there,
Josh – Owner PDXinspections.com
Another very good write up on my ongoing Carfax/AutoCheck Shady dealer rants
Are There Dealers Using Carfax To Scam Buyers? Write a Column Stories Denver YourHub.com.
This was a great story by ABC news about aged/dangerous tires. I see old/weathered tires on used cars all of the time… Experts agree tires have usable life of 6-7 Years.
I continually explain to my clients, Carfax should only be used as an additional buying tool to aid in purchasing your next vehicle. Every time I hear a Carfax radio or TV ad it reminds me how much this system is really geared towards dealers instead of protecting the buying public. The latest TV ad ends in saying “Ask for your Carfax report, Free at thousands of reputable dealers” The truth behind this, is that dealers are forced to spend big dollars to have a dealer Carfax account to offer those reports to you, That alone is not the crime. When buying their inventory at auction they actually purchase vehicles that have no accident/damage hits on the Carfax report alone. What’s wrong with that you might ask? 80% of the vehicles I inspect have one or more repainted/repaired panels yet show nothing on a Carfax report. The Dealers know this and they know what cars have been repainted or have been in an accident but they also know 98% of the buyers out there will rely on these reports alone and not have the car pre-purchase inspected prior to purchase. On a Carfax report the accident/damage section is the same section. In my opinion there is a big difference between an accident (think T-bone, rear ender, rolling a vehicle) vs. a more common front or rear bumper replacement/repaint. Not to Carfax, they’re the same. Dealers also love the 1 Owner Carfax vehicles, and Carfax even adds the text “This vehicle is worth $2xxx.oo more than similar vehicles in this category for being a 1 owner vehicle” Really? Obviously having one owner is better than being bounced around to many, but it says nothing about how that one owner has cared for the car. Don’t get caught up in the hype, be sure to have your next potential vehicle pre-purchase inspected despite what an automated report on a piece of paper says.
Josh – PDXinspections.com
http://www.hightechautoservice.com/PDXInspections/scams/dealer_brake_job.htm
$650 bill trying to sell brakes to a 20 year old female driving a 23K mile vehicle from a large franchised dealership. Actual pad remaining ~8.6mm or 73%
My theme makes this rather difficult to read, please visit my website http://www.hightechautoservice.com/PDXInspections/scams/tlscam.htm for the original page. Interesting read that everyone should see.
